on the scene

While the rest of my country men celebrated Thanksgiving , I was on the road and thankful to make it to my destination safely with all my gear.
I woke up after a 10 hour sleep recharged and ready to go, I am staying with my friend Richard Diaz and we are going to hit up Fronton this afternoon. Fronton is a sick bodyboard wave, one of the best in the world, so I am excited to be in the canarys with a good swell outlook.